There is nothing wrong with buying used clubs as long as hey are the right clubs for your game, fit your body size, and conform to your particular golf swing mechanics (swing speed and swing type). If they are to stiff, not long enough, too long, or the grips are no the right size, driver loft is to low for your swing speed, or the lie of the clubs will cause a tendency in you to hit the ball other than straight, then the particular clubs you are looking at probably aren’t right for you.

What I am really trying to convey here, that the right clubs for you require some custom fitting. This means having clubs that conform to all the things I mentioned in the previous paragraph.

The right head type for your game is also important. If you are someone who hasn’t, and probably won’t be playing the game too much, then you will want your clubs top be forgiving. You would also want them to have improvement features like hosel offset, maximum perimeter weighting, a thick top line and a wide sole. Clubs with these feature will help improve your game if you are someone who doesn’t always hit the ball with the centre of the clubface.

You also need to be aware of the shaft’s properties, is it right for you. Get it right and you will see your distance maximized, with a higher loft. This is true especially if you have a slow swing speed. The proper shafts can help you compensate for low ball trajectory, or shots that are short or go to the right. Is this beginning to sound like somebody you know?

If you taller or shorter, you may need to adjust the lie of your irons to make sure that the bottom of the club is flat with the ground during contact with the ball. If not, you could suffer some extremely inaccurate shots.

If your driver doesn’t have enough loft for your game, you could be losing more than 20 yards off your shot. The only way to know what is right for you is to be fitted by a professional.

You will know that your fitting session is good and the right questions are being asked if you are asked questions like how tall are you? How far is it from your wrist to the floor? How big is your hand (what size is it)? What are the typical yardages of your driver and 5 iron?

Other questions that need to be asked when you buy used clubs are what happens if they are not the right ones? What if one of them breaks after a couple of months? Can/will they be fixed for free? The answers to these questions in the vast majority of cases is an emphatic NO!

When you buy your clubs new, you can get a 1 year guarantee, and a money back return possibility. They will (should) be exactly what you need, if not adjustments can be made. And all this can be less costly than a used set. You can get all this from an online retailer who is into custom clones.

It is worth your while to check it out online before you buy used! getting the proper set of clubs for you will help your game. And when that happens, you enjoy the game more, and golf becomes more than “a good walk spoiled”!

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Fascinatingly enough a bad golfer is consistent enough with his/her consistent mistakes and poor play, that it promotes even more bad golf and frustration. Actually a bad golfer ignores or is unaware of what has to be the single most important aspect of the golf swing. This is the setup or positioning before the swing.

It does not matter how good your swing is and how much correct technique you have used. If you do not pay attention to your swing, you are a bad golfer and it will clearly show when you have hit the ball. All great golfers are aware of how important the setup is and you can be sure that many bad golfers are not. If you setup correctly for a shot, chances are extremely high that you will hit a good shot. So important is your setup that even if you swing poorly in a good setup position, you are bound to at least hit a reasonable shot.

A good setup will enable you achieve a good posture and the sort of balance that will help you maintain balance and inevitably control throughout the shot. The correct setup comes with correct training and even more important; exercising and conditioning of the muscles you use in your entire body for the swing. A bad golfer will more often than not be the sort of person who does not do golf-specific exercises aimed at improving their golf. The result is that they will not even be able to tell the difference between a good setup position and a bad one, simply because they will tend to feel uncomfortable in both.

It is amazing but true that all it takes to move you swiftly to the ranks of a good golfer from amongst the majority of bad golfers is a simple exercise routine, most of which you can even do from your office while you work.

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Every golfer wants to know the best golf driver tip.  I hate to disappoint you but there are many great golf driver tips that could be the key to unlocking monster drives for you.  Every month the golf magazines have dozens of tips in them, but none of them get to the root of the problem.

If I were to get the opportunity to write a golf driver tip for a magazine, I’d say something against the norm.  Something teaching instructors wouldn’t want to hear.  Do you want to know what it is?  It’s not some quick fix, because they never work long-term.  The “only” thing that works long-term is working on you.

Your body has a current level of physical ability.  I don’t care how many balls you hit at the range; how many lessons you take; and what driver you’re swinging.  Hitting the ball further takes an increase in clubhead speed.  Period.  So hitting more balls or taking more lessons won’t improve this.

The only thing that can improve clubhead speed is strengthening your core rotational strength and flexibility.  Your core is the engine to your swing.  A weak or inflexible core will not give you the results you are looking for.

The golf swing is a turn back and a turn through.  Isn’t that about as simple as you can make it?  If that’s true, why wouldn’t you improve your body’s ability to rotate quicker and more powerfully?  This is the ticket to longer drives!

There are many simple, yet effective core rotational exercises you can do in your home, or even office to greatly improve your clubhead speed and driving distance.

Do you want an easy one you can do right in your chair?

Cross your arms in front of your chest.  Sit up tall and erect.  With a fixed head position, rotate to the right and left slowly.  See how far you can go.  Do this without stopping.  As you feel a loosening of the core, start to rotate faster and faster.  Do this 20 or 30 times when you think about it and I guarantee you’ll feel it.

Since time is such a valuable commodity, you’ve got to get creative.  I hope I didn’t disappoint you with this golf driver tip.

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There are two kinds of position shots – the kind you hope ends up on the green,
and the kind you hope to put in position so that you can play the next shot
to the green.

If you are serious about lowering your score and becoming a better golfer,
then you should be hitting more of the latter type.

However, I realize you can easily reach a lot of holes out there in two
shots if you hit a good drive, and you you will most often try to do that.

So if you’ve got anything more than a 5 iron in your hand and you’re playing
toward the green, consider the following advice

The first thing to think about is club selection. Many golfers are not big
fans of long irons, but I realize that most players carry at least a 4 iron.
You might even prefer the 3 iron for all I know.

I just suggest a green light for long irons when the situation has all of
the following attributes:

- There is no trouble in front of the green that is going to prevent the ball
from running onto the green if you mis-hit it.

- You’re playing into the wind.

- The hole is cut in the back of the green.

- The green is at least average in depth, preferably even deeper than normal.

Notice Anything Odd About Those Suggestions?

They make an assumption – and that assumption is that there a big chance that
you are going to hit the ball thin. That is the most common mistake with long irons.
But if you play them only when the shot has all of the above characteristics,
you’ll be fine.

If you hit it well, you are in business. If you hit it badly, you’re still in
business. I also suggest that you aim for the side of the green that will offer
you the most room between you and the hole in case you miss the green to that side.

In other words, if the hole is on the left, aim for the right side of the green,
and if the hole is on the right, aim for the left side of the green. If you mis-hit
the ball, you’ll probably miss the green on the side you aimed at, and you’ll be
facing an easier up-and-down situation.

Now if it is a toss-up between a long iron and a fairway wood, you should
always reach for the fairway wood if:

- The green is elevated, that is, it’s higher than the fairway.

- There is a bunker or other hazard directly fronting the green, or close enough
that it presents only a narrow gap that a ball would have to get lucky to run through.

- You are downwind or there is virtually no wind.

- You need the ball to stop almost immediately when it hits the green.

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If you want to succeed at learning to play golf and becoming a better player, it is essential that you learn how to chip and pitch great shots. Doing so will help you make up for getting inaccurate balls off of the tee and on the green.  In fact, beginner golfers will spend 90% of their time making off-target shots which then lead to recovery shots.

In order to score well you must learn to recover from these off-target shots. In other words, great recovery shots are the result of well-made chip and pitch hits.

No matter how accurate and far you are able to hit the ball from the tee, without having skill at your short game, you will not enjoy the feeling of lowering your scores. It becomes a huge disadvantage. Your short game is what matters most. By having a decent chip or pitch, you can dominate the scoring zone (a 6′ circle around the hole).

What Is The Difference Between The Chip & Pitch?

When playing golf, each game will be different and you may not always hit the ball onto the green with the standard amount of shots taken. Many times your ball will land somewhere within the range of a short iron shot from the green. This is the time when you have to decide if it is best to shoot a chip, or a pitch.

The Chip Shot: A chip shot is made when your ball lands within 5 to 10 feet from the putting surface.  Basically, it is any shot that you make which is close to the green. Your goal when making a chip shot is simply to lag the ball as close to the hole as possible so that you have a very easy putt to make. Properly executed, a chip shot may go airborne for a very short distance, and lands on the green, rolling slowly towards the hole.

The Pitch Shot: A pitch shot is made when the ball is hit much further from the green. Although the chip and the pitch are hit from different distances, the objective is the same: you want your pitch shot to snuggle up as close to the hole as possible so that your next putt can be made easily from a short distance of just the few feet or less.

Pitch shots also come in handy when you must send the ball airborne over a hazard area or any other obstacle. The pitch will become airborne longer and hire than a chip shot, with a bit more backspin.

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I run an annual Charity Golf Tournament, and if you have ever done even one, you’ll know how much work they can be.  Just the shear volume of effort that is required in keeping track of registrations, sponsorships, who’s paid, and who has not etc. etc. is enough to make a grown man cry. Having said that, I would appreciate if any of you could give me a line on some software that will make administering my charity tournament easier.

Reply to this post, and get a free gift.

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If you are faced with a double whammy of being a constant traveler as well as a golf aficionado, well, you have a problem at hand. And the only solution is to carry a full set of traveling accessories so that you remain in touch with your golf swing.

If you wish to retain your handicap while you travel, you will need some of the following

- Foldable golf clubs suck, but they are still better than having no golf clubs at all. Arrange them logically in a golf bag so that you can find them when you need them. Take a few basic ones along with you, there is no need to take the full set with you.

- You get reinforced traveling golf bags for a slightly higher price tag. But since this is a one-time investment, go ahead and splurge a bit. The metal covered bags will keep your clubs safe while traveling. You know how the airlines and porters handle your luggage!

- As with all your other traveling stuff, name and label each and every thing in your golf bag including the bag itself. If things get misplaced in transit then, this way, you at least have a ghost of chance to get your stuff back.

- As far as possible, ship your clubs separately. Use USPS, or do a search for “golf club Shippers”. There are numerous choices.

- Carry backup tees and balls in case you misplace your regular set.

Please leave a post and get a free copy of my latest Ebook  “End The Frustration”

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Here’s a good tip from my friend Ben Poston at www.trianglecustomclubs.com

There are two kinds of position shots – the kind you hope ends up on the green,
and the kind you hope to put in position so that you can play the next shot
to the green.

If you are serious about lowering your score and becoming a better golfer,
then you should be hitting more of the latter type.

However, I realize you can easily reach a lot of holes out there in two
shots if you hit a good drive, and you you will most often try to do that.

So if you’ve got anything more than a 5 iron in your hand and you’re playing
toward the green, consider the following advice

The first thing to think about is club selection. Many golfers are not big
fans of long irons, but I realize that most players carry at least a 4 iron.
You might even prefer the 3 iron for all I know.

I just suggest a green light for long irons when the situation has all of
the following attributes:

-  There is no trouble in front of the green that is going to prevent the ball
from running onto the green if you mis-hit it.

- You’re playing into the wind.

- The hole is cut in the back of the green.

- The green is at least average in depth, preferably even deeper than normal.

Notice Anything Odd About Those Suggestions?

They make an assumption – and that assumption is that there a big chance that
you are going to hit the ball thin. That is the most common mistake with long irons.
But if you play them only when the shot has all of the above characteristics,
you’ll be fine.

If you hit it well, you are in business. If you hit it badly, you’re still in
business. I also suggest that you aim for the side of the green that will offer
you the most room between you and the hole in case you miss the green to that side.

In other words, if the hole is on the left, aim for the right side of the green,
and if the hole is on the right, aim for the left side of the green. If you mis-hit
the ball, you’ll probably miss the green on the side you aimed at, and you’ll be
facing an easier up-and-down situation.

Now if it is a toss-up between a long iron and a fairway wood, you should
always reach for the fairway wood if:

- The green is elevated, that is, it’s higher than the fairway.

- There is a bunker or other hazard directly fronting the green, or close enough
that it presents only a narrow gap that a ball would have to get lucky to run through.

- You are downwind or there is virtually no wind.

- You need the ball to stop almost immediately when it hits the green.

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